Sparkling

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NV Domaine Pecheur, Crémant du Jura, France $45

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Domaine Pecheur began producing wine in 1976 from a single hectare of vineyards. Located in Darbonnay, in the Cotes du Jura appellation (between Burgundy and Switzerland), the domaine is owned by Christian and Patricia Pêcheur who, since its inception, have worked diligently to improve and expand production of classic Jura wines. The average age of the vineyards varies from between 35 to 50 years, which is to say, the Pêcheur family is working almost exclusively with old vines.  The grapes destined to produce the Crémant are planted to rocky, pebbly soil rich in dolomite and this terroir is very expressive through the wine.  

 

Made from 100% Chardonnay planted to rocky, pebbly soil rich in dolomite, the Cremant du Jura is aged on the lees for three years before disgorgement.  Clean and mineral, this wine is bone dry, with slight tart apple fruit.  There is no dosage applied, shaping a pure sparkling wine that clearly expresses the profound terroir of this remarkable region.

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Rosé

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2016 La Spinetta, Rose, Tuscany, Italy $37

 

The Rivetti family story began in the 1890s when Giovanni Rivetti, grandfather to brothers Carlo, Bruno and Giorgio, left Piedmont for Argentina. Like many Italians at that time, he dreamed of returning home a rich and powerful man, and perhaps even one day making a great wine in his homeland. Though Giovanni never did, his son, Giuseppe (nicknamed "Pin"), fulfilled the dream. Pin married Lidia, purchased vineyards, and began to make wine. In 1977 the family took up residence at La Spinetta (meaning "top of the hill") in Castagnole Lanze, located in the heart of the area well-known for Moscato d'Asti, a rather light and simple dessert wine at the time. Over time the family’s vision became even grander and they made their first red wine in 1985.  In 2001, La Spinetta purchased 160 acres in Tuscany and in 2011 purchased Italy’s oldest Metodo Classico sparkling wine producer, Contratto, where they also make Vermouth and Bitters.   

 

2016 La Spinetta Rose, crafted from 50% Sangiovese and 50% Prugnolo Gentile, has a spicy character full of sliced ripe peaches, chalk, red berries, pomegranate and a hint of lime and sage.  It is a delicious, fun summer wine but with lots of complexity and flavor.

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White

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2016 Bellus, Falanghina 'Caldera', Campania, Italy $37

 

Bellus Wines, founded by Jordan Salcito (then sommelier at Eleven Madison Park; now Beverage Director at Momofuku) is a socially and environmentally conscious wine company that makes organically grown, terroir driven wines in collaboration with partner wineries around the globe.

 

Often featured at the Boulder Wine Merchant, Jordan’s wines are of superb quality and outstanding value.

 

The ‘Caldera’ wine is made from 100% Falanghina grapes grown without chemicals or pesticides in the hills of Campania. Nearby Mount Vesuvius, whose violent explosions have released more than 100,000 times the thermal energy of an atomic bomb, is responsible for Campania's geological identity. Claudia Wu, the artist for the label, has reimagined this smoke and ash.

 

In addition, Bellus Wines donates a percentage of ‘Caldera proceeds’ (Jordan’s other wines donate to different causes) to Earth Justice, an organization that works to preserve the environment and battle climate change.

 

2016 Bellus Falanghina is notable for its bright citrus flavor and strong mineral backbone.  A combination of savory and sweet notes on the nose, orange flower water, crystallized tangerine peel and a light herbal tone lead you to a palate with medium weight and racy acidity displaying tart apple, pear, light tropical fruit tones and distinct minerality.  
 

2015 Ingrid Groiss, Gruner Veltliner In der Schablau Reserve, Austria $47

 

Ingrid Groiss is a young, vivacious female winemaker, living in the Weinviertel, the oldest wine-growing district in Austria. Her relationship with the Weinviertel runs deep, as her parents and grandmother owned vineyards for many years, making wine for their local country wine tavern, traditionally known as a Heuriger. It took Ingrid some time before returning to her roots and taking on the life of a winemaker, whereby she had to blaze her own trail within the family business. Wines of expressive terroir have come to symbolize Ingrid’s craft technique, and deservedly, a dedicated following has ensued. The indigenous vineyard hare, gracing her labels, is symbolic of her dedication to harmony with nature and her connection to this delightful creature that flourishes in her gardens.

 

Peppery yellow plums and freshly peeled lemon dominate the nose and palate. With one sip, their spicy zippy fillip of freshness will make you salivate. If you are in need of lively refreshment, look no further. This is an exemplary Grüner that expresses everything that is outstanding about the 2015 vintage. Crisp, dry, elegant and aromatic with fruit and floral characteristics that spring from the glass.

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2014 Francois Chidaine, Montlouis sur Loire 'Bournais' Loire Valley, France $56

 

Domaine Francois Chidaine was established in 1989 by Francois Chidaine across the river from Vouvray in Montlouis. It’s a fairly sizeable domaine, totalling 37 hectares, including 20 in Montlouis, 10 in Vouvray and 7 in Touraine.  The estate has vines between 40 and 80 years old, all certified Biodynamic but none 0f his labels will say as much. For Francois, it is about the work not the notoriety. He is a true champion of the Chenin Blanc grape and touts its ability to produce vibrant wines that age gracefully. Francois is happiest on his tractor or with his hands in the dirt, but being among his barrels is a close second.

 

Montlouis is a 400 hectares appellation which was granted AOC status in 1937 (Prior to that all wines made in Montlouis were labeled Vouvray). Unlike most of Montlouis, which is on clay and flint, this 4-hectare vineyard (planted in 1998) lies on a pocket of clay and Bournais limestone, from which it takes it's name. It's a beautiful site, certainly one of Montlouis' fines and it produces an altogether more 'Vouvray' expression of Montlouis with a powdery, chalky structure that clearly reflects its soils and location. The power and opulence of this wine is equally balanced by the chalky vibration (the kind you might find in a great Blanc de Blancs) that runs the length of the palate and dominates the finish.  

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Red

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2013 Bibi Graetz, Chianti "Le Cicale di Vincigliata", Tuscany, Italy $29

 

Considered one of Italy's most ingenious winemakers, Bibi Graetz has risen from artist to cult winemaker since the release of his first wines back in 2000. Without any formal training and with initially only a small 2 hectare vineyard on his parents' property overlooking Florence, he has managed to unceremoniously gatecrash the staid Tuscan wine scene and, in Testamatta, create one of Italy's great cult wines.

 

Born and raised in Italy, Bibi makes his wine in his family home, Castello di Vincigliata, a castle in Fiesole. The lack of a traditional Tuscan Estate has freed him to search out parcels of old vines around Tuscany- and even the Isola di Giglio - which are the basis for his concentrated, yet elegant wines. Using organic cultivation methods and resisting the trend of planting Cabernet and Merlot, these wines are the ultimate expression of indigenous grape varieties.

 

“Le Cicale di Vincigliata” is a blend mostly Sangiovese with a small percentage of Canaiolo and Colorino.   Cherry, strawberry, leather and herbal flavors define this juicy yet firm red. The finish displays dried herb and leather elements that perfectly balance the fruit tones.

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2015 Romeo del Castello, Etna Rosso 'Allegracore', Sicily $45

 

Proprietors Rosanna Romeo and her daughter Chiara Vigo are taking the historic Fattorie Romeo del Castello to a higher level. The estate is surrounded by a lava flow from an eruption in 1981 that threatened to take away the entire 30 hectares of the domaine. Luckily, their 100 year old vineyard of Nerello Mascalese was spared and with a few new plantings, the vineyards are now spread over 14 hectares by the Alcantara river at 700 meters on Mt. Etna. If more proof is needed that the land is special, they also have a thousand year old olive tree and some hundred year old oak trees.   All of the vines are in albarello (goblet) training, the traditional cultivation method of the region. The grapes are hand-harvested, fermented in open wood vats without yeasts or enzymes and temperature controlled. The wines are aged in older oak casks for about 14 months then bottled without fining or filtration.

 

A blend of Nerello Mascalese and Nerello Cappucino, dark-skinned berry, new leather, aromatic herb and a whiff of cake spice lead the nose. Delicious and approachable, the smooth, full-bodied palate doles out juicy black cherry, crushed raspberry, cinnamon and clove alongside supple tannins and vibrant acidity.

 

2014 Emmanuel Darnaud, Saint Joseph, Rhone, Valley France $69

 

A young man with a bright future, Emmanuel Darnaud is well on his way toward making a strong name for himself as one of the most talented young winemakers to emerge from the Rhone Valley in the last handful of years, as acknowledged by leading Rhone Valley wine guru John Livingstone-Learmonth. His winemaking education came at the foot of the best, noted Hermitage producer Bernard Faurie, where Emmanuel spent 4 years alongside the artisan vigneron. He started out with just 1.5 hectares and in 2001 produced his first vintage. Fortunately, the domaine has grown in size and as of 2015, with the addition of a single Saint Joseph parcel belonging to now father-in law Bernard Faurie, and currently stands at 15 hectares, mostly scattered about the southern sector of the appellation.  This area is notable for its presence of alluvial stones in the vineyards, not unlike those found in Châteauneuf du Pape further to the south, with pockets of brown clay subsoil underneath, making for supple, round, fruit driven wines.

 

The Saint Joseph bottling is from a single, one hectare parcel which goes by the name of La Dardouille or roughly translated as the blazing sun, aptly named as this southeastern facing parcel, overlooking the Rhône on its western flank, does not lack for sunlight or heat. Dense and compact crafted from 100% Syrah, this wine exudes dark, ripe berry fruit, dried flowers, and mineral tension all laid upon a satiny, complex palate.