Beer

 

Brasserie à Vapeur Cochonne—Vapeur is a brewery located in Pipaix, Belgium. In continuous operation since 1785 (with a short break during WWI when some metal parts were used by the German military), the brewery today focuses on producing just four beers. Cochonne is an amber colored saison that is brewed with roasted chicory, coriander, and sweet orange peel, among other ingredients.  Vapeur describes the flavor of the beer as "surprising and original", with flavors of caramel, spice, and a slight sourness stemming from the brewer's unique yeast.  There's a port-like complexity to the sweet and sour brew with very little hop flavor.  It is the interplay of spicy, sour, and sweet that create the unique and food friendly flavor. Please note this is one 750mL bottle. $12.99

 

Rosé

 

Patrick Bottex NV “La Cueille” Bugey-Cerdon Méthode Ancestrale—Bugey is one of the best-kept secrets in France. It is the geographical crossroads of the Savoie, Jura, Burgundy, and the Rhône. Cerdon is one of three crus within the appellation of Bugey and is the only one whose entire production is sparkling wine. La Cueille is one of seven villages surrounding the medieval town of Ponsin. Patrick and Catherine Bottex have been working five hectares of land here since 1991 and only produce a few hundred cases of wine.  The Bottex blend is generally 90% Gamay, with 10% Poulsard. It is made using Méthode Ancestrale, a rare technique that predates Méthode Champenoise. The wine goes through primary fermentation and is then bottled before all of the residual sugar is converted to alcohol. There is no dosage and the resulting wine is refreshing, bright, sparkling, and pink, with a touch of sweetness depending on the vintage. $38.98

 

White

 

François Cazin 2013 Cour-Cheverny—The Loire valley is one of my favorite viticultural places in France.  The wealth of grapes grown and styles of wines produced boggles the mind.  This wine is produced from the ancient Romorantin grape.  This grape is only found in Cour Cheverny! In the hands of such a talented wine maker, this rare grape reaches great heights. Find citrus, white flowers, and minerality on the nose.  On the palate, the minerality takes the forefront.  This is one of the most mineralistic wines I've ever had! Look for lemon curd, unripe melon, and green apple to follow.  A truly interesting wine from a unique and rare grape.  $25.98

 

Goisot St. Bris Corps de Garde—Burgundy is a region I love and hate. I love the wines, the expressions of the simple Chardonny and Pinot Noir grapes.  I hate the ever increasing prices.  In search of better bargains, look to the outskirts of the region. This wine is from St. Bris, which is located near Chablis. Interestingly enough, wines from St. Bris are only allowed to use the Sauvignon Blanc grape, in stark contrast to the rest of Burgundy.  The Goisot family is practising biodynamic, and I have found all of their wines to offer great value.  This wine comes from two small plots of the ancient Fié Gris grape, an ancestor to the modern Sauvignon.  After hand harvesting, the grapes are pressed and fermented with indigenous yeasts in stainless steel at cooler temperatures.  Aging occurs in tank. Look for the signature aromas of Sauvignon in yellow fruits, citrus, and mineral.  On the palate, look for a richness of extraction and a medium body, with citrus, herbs, and mineralty.  If you like Sancerre or Pouilly Fume, this is similar yet different at the same time.  $37.98

 

Terčič 2011 Matijaz Ribolla Gialla—The Terčič winery is located in San Floriano del Collio, on the border with Slovenia, in the easternmost area of northern Italy.  With a commitment to biodynamic agriculture, this estate is another leader in the region in growing both indigenous grapes and some international varieties.  After an overnight maceration, the juice is moved into stainless steel and fermented at cooler temperatures to preserve the perfumy aromatics of the grape.  Look for a deep golden color, with ripe peach, lemon custard, and yellow cherries on the nose and in the rich, weighty palate.  Underneath it all lurks the signature Ribolla acidity, making this an excellent food wine. $51.98

 

Red

 

Ermitage du Pic Saint Loup 2012 "Tour de Pierres"—Legends seem to converge at the Ermitage du Pic St-Loup. The hermitage dates back from the Middle Ages, as the former home of the bishops of Maguelone. The limestone peak or “pic” perched above the vineyards was named for the legendary Saint Thieri Loup, one of three pious, crusading, brothers and suitors to the beautiful Bertrade—after her untimely death, Loup became a hermit. The Ravilles brothers planted a vineyard on this land in 1992, and within the first few years, came to the conclusion that biodynamic practices would allow them to make the best wine they possibly could.  Though this methodology has been used since 1999, the estate was only certified organic with this vintage, 2012. Comprised of a blend of Syrah, Grenache, and Mourvedre, look for a very savory nose with aromas of smoke, pepper and herbs, and dark fruit. In the glass, the fruit will gain some prominence as the herbal and spice characteristics recede into the background. While big on the palate, the wine has a freshness of fruit flavor and bright acid. $25.98

 

Terres des Chardons 2013 Bien Luné—Established in 1993, this domaine is all about natural winemaking.  It is certified both organic and biodynamic, with no chemicals used in the vineyards or winery, save for a small dose of sulphur at bottling time. Fermentation occurs only with indigenous yeast, and all actions in the vineyard and in the winery are carried out in accordance with phases of the moon.  Even the winery was built with natural materials—stone, wood, baked earth tiles, and cork insulation. This wine is 50% Syrah and 50% Grenache, but the aromatics immediately take you to the Northern Rhone. Bright red fruit, violets, and a handful of herbs greet the nose. On the palate, look for red fruit, pepper, and a refreshing character that gets more refreshing with food. $38.98

 

Calabretta 2004 Nerello Mascalese—It's not often that we get a new release of an older wine. From the island of Sicily and the grape Nerello Mascalese, this is one of the more interesting and offbeat wines we've gotten in recent times. The estate is practicing organic, and some of the grape vines are over 100 years old and on their original, ungrafted roots. What this gets us in the end is a wine of distinctive class, breed, and elegance. A little earthy funkiness will appear upon opening, but blow off to reveal a high toned red fruit, earth, and mineral nose. A very intense but medium body arrives on the palate with a play between earth, acid, and morello cherries. It is the aromatics and intensity of this wine that make it such a great food pairing. $51.98